| If you have a romantic heart and an adventurous spirit, | | | | We asked if we could meet the women of the tribe |
| then you have to ride an Arab horse across the | | | | and the female riders only were allowed into their |
| desert of Wadi Rum at least once in your lifetime.Wadi | | | | separate part of the tent. We communicated with the |
| Rum, in the far south of Jordan, is also known as | | | | women in sign language and by drawing pictures and |
| Valley of the Moon. It is an enchanting place where | | | | realized that we had the same wants and needs |
| massive rocky outcrops rise majestically out of the | | | | whatever culture we come from. I felt that we had |
| desert floor. The rocks have the appearance of | | | | witnessed something very special that the normal |
| melting chocolate and the colours in the sandstone are | | | | tourist doesn't usually see.At the end of each long day |
| like a muted earthy rainbow. It is a landscape like no | | | | in the saddle, when we were tired and hungry, the |
| other.I have ridden twice now in Wadi Rum with | | | | cook and crew had already set up camp. I was |
| Equitour Worldwide Riding Holidays Both trips were | | | | always amazed by the places they found for us to |
| spectacular and different. I met old friends and made | | | | spend the night. The crew consisted of a very good |
| new. That is the wonderful thing about horses - they | | | | cook and assistant, horse handlers, maybe a local vet |
| bring people together who enjoy a challenge whatever | | | | and drivers. There were normally about two or three |
| their age.Initially I was anxious about my riding ability | | | | 4WD pickup trucks, which carried food and water for |
| and crossing the sort of terrain described in the | | | | the horses, for the riders and also all our bags and |
| brochure. I remember on the first trip, the briefing | | | | camping equipment. They stayed discreetly out of the |
| session was held in a fabulous Bedouin style | | | | way when we were riding unless needed for water |
| restaurant in the capital Amman. I thought that I was | | | | etc and they went on ahead to find resting places and |
| the most inexperienced rider of the whole group and | | | | overnight campsites. Sometimes a rider decided a rest |
| asked Ishmael, who owns the local tour company out | | | | was needed and so swopped their horse for a seat in |
| there, to make sure that I had a very quiet horse.The | | | | one of the trucks.Camping was the most wonderful |
| next day we left Amman and set off in a mini bus | | | | fun and I was surprised at how everyone forgot about |
| down the Desert Highway, which is the main | | | | their complex lives at home and wanted to stay in the |
| motorway through Jordan, from Syria to Saudi Arabia. | | | | desert forever with few or little possessions. We were |
| The journey was full of sights new to our Western | | | | fed ample freshly cooked food that was delicious and |
| eyes. We passed convoys of colourful trucks | | | | wine, beer and soft drinks were provided. We all sat |
| transporting goods to Saudi and at the side of the | | | | around the fire exchanging stories and learning about |
| highway in the scrubby desert were small settlements | | | | the Bedouin way of life. We heard the men singing |
| of concrete very basic single storey dwellings. We | | | | love songs to the horses to keep them calm. One |
| could see children running around amongst the goats | | | | night, members of a local tribe visited us and we had a |
| and donkeys and camels. We passed a local farmer | | | | really enjoyable and spontaneous evening. We found |
| with a camel sitting calmly in the back of his 4WD | | | | the Bedouins to be a very proud and hospitable race |
| Pickup. Our driver waved to him and he pulled in at the | | | | with a great sense of humour.On each trip, the crew |
| side of the road for us take photos of his strange and | | | | made us a makeshift shower so everyone could have |
| unconcerned passenger. We stopped at a roadside | | | | a thorough wash. I remember how wonderful it was to |
| tourist shop to buy typical Arab scarves known as | | | | feel clean and refreshed. I sat on a high rocky ledge |
| kufeyyas, which would prove indispensable against the | | | | above the horses with a can of cold lager to watch |
| harsh sun and later we picked up some dates and | | | | the sun go down and the colours of the desert |
| huge blocks of ice from a local supermarket.We | | | | change.Although tents were provided, most of us liked |
| arrived at the edge of Wadi Rum and the horses | | | | to put our sleeping bags on the rocks or just on the |
| were waiting for us. I looked at them nervously | | | | lovely soft sand. I stayed on my high rocky ledge and |
| wondering which one would be mine and hoping it | | | | lay there watching the bright stars shooting across the |
| would be very quiet. The tack was a curious affair of | | | | sky and feeling completely at one with the mysterious |
| blankets and pads covered in fabric your Grandmother | | | | nature of Wadi Rum.At the end of the second trip I |
| once had on her settee, plus the saddle and a very | | | | sadly said goodbye to my horse and the crew at the |
| basic bridle. We were told to sit with legs well forward | | | | edge of the desert. We were taken by minibus to our |
| and reins held high in one hand. The horses responded | | | | luxury five star Hotel in Petra near to the famous |
| to body movement and very light neck reining. They | | | | Nabatean city. I strode into the reception area with its |
| jogged in the gait typical of their breed, which took a bit | | | | marble floors and Persian rugs, feeling hot and sweaty |
| of getting used to. My mare was very quiet and didn't | | | | and covered in red dust. The staff did not bat an |
| jog but liked to roll in the soft sand without any warning. | | | | eyelid. That night I rolled over and fell out of my king |
| When we had got used to our horses and the style of | | | | size bed because I had got so used to sleeping on the |
| riding, we quickened the pace. Just a shake of the | | | | ground.The next morning a guided tour of Petra had |
| reins and we were cantering fast across the desert | | | | been arranged for us. I spent the whole day there and |
| floor, weaving in and out of the desert broom bushes. | | | | then realized I was late for an appointment at the |
| It was exhilarating. | | | | famous Brooke Animal Hospital, near the entrance. |
| My horsemanship fears soon disappeared and by the | | | | There was no time to walk so I hired a camel and |
| end of the week, I had progressed from my quiet | | | | trotted fast through the ancient city with the owner |
| mare to one of the liveliest horses on the trip.Each day | | | | running behind me. When the camel reached the |
| was different as we rode around the desert through | | | | Treasury I had to leave it but was then given a horse |
| deep red rock canyons and ascended the airy heights | | | | to ride at top speed to the hospital. I just made it in |
| of enormous rippled dunes. We stood on the very | | | | time to have a tour with the Head Vet and give a |
| edge and marveled at the scenery below. We saw | | | | donation to the charity. Indiana Jones eat your heart |
| the Seven Pillars of Wisdom made famous by T.E | | | | out!The next day a few of us hired a car and driver |
| Lawrence; we found secret water springs used only | | | | and were taken down to the famous port of Aqaba |
| by the Bedouin; we passed camel trains and goat | | | | on the Red Sea. It has one of the finest corral reefs in |
| herders; we saw rock paintings thousands of years | | | | the world and we spent our last day, before the flight |
| old. Only very occasionally did we see tourists but | | | | home, snorkeling and relaxing on the beach. It was a |
| most of the time we were on our own. The horses | | | | fitting end to a fantastic holiday.My riding trip to Jordan |
| were game and lively and gave the whole journey a | | | | was over but will never be forgotten. And hopefully, |
| sense of gaiety. When we came to a stretch of flat | | | | there will always be another adventure waiting for me |
| desert, we galloped all together in one long row, one | | | | out there in the desert.Visit Jordan with Equitour |
| arm raised like Arab warriors charging.Once we spied | | | | Worldwide Riding Holidays once and you will be |
| a Bedouin tent complete with Toyota and camels in | | | | enchanted. Visit a second time and you will be |
| the distance. One of the crew phoned the sheik on his | | | | welcomed like an old friend. |
| mobile and we were invited over for coffee in his tent. | | | | |