| If you own your own saddle, it is very important to | | | | metal and rubber parts in your water. Do not soak the |
| keep it clean. This is what keeps the leather in good | | | | leathers - clean them with saddle soap, the same way |
| condition and maximizes the longevity of your saddle. | | | | you cleaned the rest of the saddle. |
| A saddle should be lightly cleaned at least once a | | | | Be careful not to forget to clean the underside of your |
| week, and thoroughly cleaned at least once a month. | | | | saddle. This can be one of the dirtiest parts of your |
| The more often you ride, the more often you should | | | | saddle, particularly if your horse sweats a lot. Sweat |
| clean it. Even if you have not been riding, a saddle in | | | | can really damage leather, so it is very important to |
| storage benefits from a once-monthly cleaning and | | | | clean it off. |
| oiling. If well cared for a saddle can last 50 or more | | | | Once the saddle is clean, moisten the second sponge |
| years. If left alone, it will become damaged and will | | | | so that it is soft and pliable. Squeeze out any excess |
| quickly lose value. | | | | water. Now moisten the sponge with your leather |
| To begin, you will need a small bucket of warm water, | | | | conditioner. Without making a thick layer of oil on the |
| a bar of saddle soap, a jug of saddle oil or conditioner, | | | | leather, wipe the entire surface of your saddle with |
| and two sponges. You may find a soft toothbrush | | | | leather conditioner. It should all absorb into the leather. |
| useful for getting grit out of the holes, or tooling. | | | | Any excess should quickly be wiped up as it can |
| Place your saddle on a secure stand. This can easily | | | | discolor the leather. Be sure to oil the stirrup leathers |
| be made out of wood, or you can purchase a saddle | | | | and any other pieces you may have removed. |
| stand at your tack shop. | | | | Finally, take the stirrups out of the water and scrub off |
| Moisten your first sponge and lather it with soap. | | | | any remaining dirt with the toothbrush. You do not |
| Starting on the seat, gently scrub your saddle with the | | | | need soap or oil on the stirrups, unless you have |
| soapy sponge. You do not want to make your saddle | | | | leather stirrups (which you would not have dunked in |
| wet, so be sure to wring most of the water out of | | | | water in the first place). |
| your sponge. Rinse it regularly, and add fresh soap. | | | | Put your saddle back together, making sure any parts |
| You will need to clean every surface of the leather. | | | | you removed are replaced properly. |
| This means both the finished surface, and the | | | | You can find quick fix products for cleaning your tack. |
| underside of each part of your saddle. After scrubbing | | | | While these are ok for situations where you just want |
| each section with soap, rinse the sponge and wipe | | | | to tidy things up, or after every ride, they are not |
| any excess soap off the leather. Use the toothbrush | | | | suitable for a thorough cleaning. Many leave residue |
| to remove any soap caught in the billet holes or in | | | | that can gunk up in the long run. |
| fancy tooling. | | | | When selecting a type of oil, be aware that some oils, |
| Some parts of your saddle are removable. Take off | | | | like Neatsfoot Oil, will darken the leather. Others, such |
| the stirrups and stirrup leathers, being sure to | | | | as Lexol, will not. Some oils may leave residue on the |
| remember both what holes you had been using, and | | | | seat, and could stain your breeches. Talk to your local |
| how they go onto your saddle. If you have metal | | | | tack shop if you are in doubt about the best product |
| stirrups, take out the rubber treads and soak both the | | | | for your needs. |