An Adventure In Boston

If you want historical sites of the American Revolution,the Northend of Boston with its combination of New
you need to visit Boston. Of course there are otherEngland and Italian inflections.After wadling out of
reasons to visit, also: the food, the people, and theMike's we started on our version of the Freedom Trail.
accents.Having experiencing a detour within secondsI quickly regretted eating the Lobstertail when I passed
after we picked up our rental car at Boston's Loganan Italian deli. I just couldn't eat any more, so with tears
Airport, we didn't want to brave the hand directedin my eyes we ventured on. We visited Paul Revere's
traffic of the streets of Boston. Instead, we opted forHouse, the oldest structure in Boston. It was built in
Harbor Express, a passenger only ferry out of Qunicy,1680 and purchased by Paul Revere in 1770. I knocked
which is just across the harbor. The Harbor Expresson the door, but Paul didn't answer, so we moved
lands you just yards from the Quincy Market and thison.Next on the trail was Paul Revere Square and a
is a great place to start any adventure inbeautiful statue of Paul riding his borrowed horse for
Boston.Quincy Market is one long food court withthe midnight ride. Legend has the name of the horse
restaurants above and below. Fast food optionsas Brown Beauty. Brown Beauty or not, the staue is
abound. We noted that Vietnamese noodle soupmagnificent. The statue is found in tree studded square
shops were missing, but most other ethnic foods wereadjacent to the Old North Church, also known as the
present. Peg picked a quiche for lunch, while Al hadChrist Church. It was here that Robert Newman hung
scallops and lobster bisque (his two favorite choices atthe lanterns signaling the approach of the British troops
every seafood establishment we selected). I chose ain the War for Independence. Less than twenty feet
lobster roll and giant steamed prawns with lemon juicefrom Paul there were tee shirts and sweatshirts for
and cocktail sauce. The lobster roll was only okay, butsale to tourists. We declined to buy.We walked past
the prawns were succulent and excellent.We took ourthe lines waiting to enter the church and continued up a
food outside and sat on a stone bench. The weathersmall hill to Copp's Hill Burying Ground, which is the
was pleasant and the food was good. We beganresting place for many of the colonial Bostonians. The
laying out our plans for the afternoon. Overhearing usBritish set up a battery there and used it to fire on
was a shopping cart sourvineer salesman namedCharlestown. It was interesting to see how small the
Guiness. He was pleasant and funny. We talked for ahills were. We walked down towards the water and
few minutes. He didn't try to sell us anything, whichsaw the Bunker Hill Memorial across the Charles River
was nice. I'm sure he had enough people buying.Westanding high behind an office building. Copp's Hill and
decided that Peg would take a taxi to the Boston FineBunker Hill were only small elevations . . . and of course
Art Museum and meet us three hours later near thethe first major battle of the revolution, Bunker Hill was
statue of Sam Adams in front of Fanuel Hall, whichreally fought on Breed's Hill, but history sometimes gets
stands in front of Quincy Market. Al and I decided tosome things right . . . and sometimes gets them
start off on the Freedom Trail. Al is even less inclinedwrong.The U.S.S. Constitution, also known as "Old
to walk than Peg and I, so this worked out fine. TheIronsides" is located in the Charlestown Navy Yard
Freedom Trail starts just a few feet from where weless than a quarter mile from Bunker Hill. The ship was
dined."In 1958, local journalist William Schofield had thelaunched in Boston on October 21, 1797. Old Ironsides is
idea that Boston's sites could be more accessible tothe oldest commissioned warship afloat in the
residents and visitors, and conceived of the Freedomworld.Each year the ship sails for a turn-around.
Trail. A natural and easily-accomplished idea, thePassage is arranged via a lottery. You can submit
sixteen historic sites between Boston Common andyour name on the office Navy site for Old Ironsides.Al
The Bunker Hill Monument in Charlestown wereand I continued our walk along the waterfront and then
connected by a red line, and The Freedom Trail wasstopped at a small park. We approached a bocce ball
born. In addition to the historic sites, the beauty of thecourt and watched a game between two older
sights, sounds, and neighborhoods along the way mademen."Bocce had its beginnings in the Italian Alps during
walking The Freedom Trail an instantly popular activity.the early Christian era, when players tossed stones at
In 1964, the Foundation was incorporated as aa target (the object being to land as close as possible
nonprofit organization. From 1958 to 1992 the entireto the target). Roman soldiers, employing balls instead
Foundation was run, organized, and maintained byof stones, spread the game throughout the Roman
volunteer support-its early success was due solely toEmpire, where the game evolved to boules (France),
the spirit and leadership of the people of the City oflawn bowls (England) and bocce (from the vulgar Latin
Boston. Now the Foundation continues to produce realword for ball, bottia) in Italy."The two men played out
accomplishments in the areas of education, marketing,their game and then some fellows who had been
capital improvements and income-generatingplaying cards nearby put their table and chairs away in
projects."One of the sites that Al wanted us to visita locker and joined the first two players. It was
was the New England Holocaust Memorial. Theobvious that everyone new each other. They were all
memorial is located right near the Freedom Trail. It wasbetween 65 and 85 . . . maybe older. The park had
beautiful and emotionally breathtaking."The Newthree separate bocce ball courts. Each one is played in
England Holocaust Memorial was built to fostera pit surrounded by granite blocks. The floor of the
memory of and reflection on one of the greatcourt was stone dust.The group of players laughed
tragedies of our time, the Holocaust (Shoah). Theand chose up sides by playing odds and evens with
effort was begun by a group of survivors of Nazitheir fingers. It was so sweet. They were more than
concentration camps who have found new homesjust friends, they were community. This quiet scene
and new lives in the Boston area. Dedicated inthat lasted for maybe ten minutes is one of my
October, 1995, over 3000 individuals and organizationsfavorite memories of Boston. We said our goodbyes
from across the community joined in sponsoring theand headed back downtown. I enjoyed the walk and
project. The Freedom Trail location, in downtownfrequently stopped and read the menus of Italian
Boston, is near Faneuil Hall and many other treasuresrestaurants taped to their windows.We arrived back at
of America's history. The site offers a uniqueFaneuil Hall and Sam Adams before Peg arrived from
opportunity for reflection on the meaning of freedomthe museum. It was a great day for girl and people
and oppression and on the importance of a society'swatching. There was a wide variety of ethnic
respect for human rights . . . Six million numbers arebackgrounds represented. Most of them looked like
etched in glass in an orderly pattern, suggesting theBostonians. The tourists came in a wide variety, also.
infamous tattooed numbers and ghostly ledgers of theJust before Peg caught up with us a group of black
Nazi bureaucracy. Evocative and rich in metaphor, theyoung men set up a microphone and speaker system
six towers recall the six main death camps, the sixand began calling people over, "Come and see black
million Jews who died, or a menorah of memorialmen dance." And, that's what they did. Well, actually, it
candles. "Before we could start on the Freedom Trail,took them quite a long time to start. Not wanting to
Al had one more stop to make. He was anxious that Iperform before a sparse gathering, they kept hyping
should try the La Sfogliatella (Lobstertail) from Mike'sthemselves and the crowd. I said to Al, "Their preamble
Pastry.A photograph of President Kennedy withis too long for their constitution." I lost interest about the
originators Mike and Annette hangs on a wall behindsame time Peg arrived and the three of us walked off
the counter, while a portrait of Frank Sinatra looksto dinner.We decided to have a quick dinner at the
down from another. The Lobstertail was a little tooCheers. We each ordered drinks in a Cheers mug plus
sweet for me, but Al loved it as did everyone else Ione drink in a Cheers glass. The food was decent.
saw stuffing them in their mouths."The history of thisAgain, we sat outside and enjoyed the views of
extraordinary and popular item dates back to a 16thpeople walking by.By the time we finished our meal it
century convent on the Amalfi Coast near Naples. Thiswas almost sailing time for Harbor Express. We
original ancestor of the lobstertail was called Lagathered up our shopping bags and coats and started
Santarosa (named after the convent, now a popularoff for the wharf.We hadn't gone more than a
motel, where the owner of Fiat Italy is said tohundred feet before we spoted Red Auerbach, the
frequent), and its filling was a creamy white, whichgreat coach of the Boston Celtics. I had to sit down
oozed out of the sides, and was typically served upand talk to him. He listened well enough, but never
hot. In Naples coffee shops, this is still something to diereally spoke his mind, which I thought was a little
for. The white fresh cream filling of the Santarosa wasunusual for him. When Red refused to give me his
replaced as well with a yellow custard filling, thick,cigar, we left in a huff and barely made it onboard our
chewy and delicious. The modern day versions of bothcatamaran in time to sail back to Quincy.We really
of these that Mike's Pastry carries are both the whiteenjoyed our short stay in Boston, but it was just that. It
cream and yellow cream filled. The best of bothwas too short. Next time we will arrange a stay of
worlds, and a cake version is available asseveral days, so we can see more sites and talk to
well."Personally, I got the biggest kick out of Mariamore people.Don Doman is a published author, video
(probably not her real name). I think she was the bossproducer, and corporate trainer. He owns the business
of everyone . . . at least she certainly acted like it.training site Ideas and Training ( which he says is the
When any production company begins a new TVhome of the no-hassle "free preview" for business
show or feature film based in Boston, they shouldtraining videos. Don and his wife Peg also travel in the
have her tutor the actors on correct pronunciation forPacific Northwest writing of their fun and adventures.