Horses In My Back Yard

Horses In My Back Yardnot putting him into situations that hurt him or scare him
badly.
by Jody Hudson, with Extensive Collaboration From
Chris HudsonEQUINE DENTIST: Horses need dentists too! At least
once a year, some horses require to have the equine
HORSE LOVERS: During my thirty years of sellingdentist "float" his teeth. This removes sharp edges so
rural land, I have frequently found that folks want somethat he can chew his food properly and be
acreage so that they can own and ride horses. Theycomfortable with the bit.
LOVE horses in their own mind but have little if any of
the real knowledge or experience necessary to raiseGROOMING: Horses love to be brushed and bathed.
one or more horses. Far too often, they haveSpend lots of quality time with your horse when you
knowledge based on little more than an idyllic dreamfirst get him and each time before and after you ride
and that dream based for the most part on romantichim with gentle loving hands and lots of brush
novels and movies. This article will give you somegrooming. Pick the stones and dirt from his feet before
basic information which may save you and a horseand after a ride to keep him from getting bruised feet.
some bad or even terrible experiences.Check him for ticks after any ride in the woods or tall
grass -- especially in warm weather. Keep all your
HOW MANY ACRES?: If you do want horses; a goodtack clean and the leather saddle-soaped and lightly
rule of thumb in good pasture areas is 3 to 5 acres ofoiled. Wash your saddle blanket after each use and
pasture per horse, and ideally another acre or two ofrinse his bit well too. He doesn't like a hard, dirty blanket
paddock per horse. The wise Equestrian will thus planon his back or a crusty bit in his mouth. Keep your
about 6 to 10 acres per horse they want to keep inbrushes clean too, rinse, wash and pull the hair out of
the purchase of land. The paddocks are smallerthem periodically.
fenced pasture areas close to the barn used for
training, saddling up your horse or getting a new horseNUTRITION: Nutrition is a powerful factor in the life of
acclimated to his new home.a horse, just as it is our own. Often a problem horse
can just be suffering from some nutritional deficiency.
The risk of injury to animals increases where horsesOften a horse that is "cribbing" that is chewing on his
are overcrowded, and competition for food, water andstall or on the fence has a nutritional deficiency. This
space may lead to fighting. You must provide anshould be handled quickly as the swallowed wood
adequate number of paddocks or yards to permitsplinters have obvious danger to your horse. Horses
incompatible animals to be segregated. The number ofneed vitamins, roughage of course, minerals, protein,
horses and their grouping in each paddock or yardoils, carbohydrates, enzymes and trace elements in
must be appropriate for their compatibility and for thetheir diets to be at their best in health, behavior and
ground conditions, taking into account the climaticattitude... and sometimes even if they are getting the
conditions pertaining at the time.correct food they may not be digesting it to get the
proper use of the nutrients... just like us.
You also need room for the house, barn, hay storage,
tack building and a loafing shed for them to get underHorse Hair Analysis is a very useful tool to find the
when the weather is not quite acceptable to them. Inrealistic needs of your horse. The hair is a long term
any yard or shelter, each horse must have adequaterecord of the horse's nutritional health and the analysis
room to lie down, stand up and turn around. Therewill tell the most accurate story as to what your
should be a clean, dry area for the horse to lie down,particular horse needs... or what he is getting too much
the surface of which protects the horse fromof -- especially if he is ingesting some sort of toxic
abrasions and capped elbows and hocks. Paddockssubstance.
which expose horses to items of machinery,
equipment or rubbish (especially wire) likely to causeTRAILERS and TRAILERING: For most people
serious injury must not be used.learning to trailer your horse is mandatory. If you are
fortunate to purchase a place far out in the rural
FENCING: There are numerous types of fencing thatun-populated areas, especially if you purchase property
are designed for horses. Board fences are deadlyon a long dirt road or network of such roads -- you
dangerous if not constantly maintained. The horsesmay be able to do a lot of riding without trailering. You
can break a board and end up impaled on it. Wire,will still likely want to have a trailer eventually, so that
especially barbed wire can entangle your horse's leg oryou can take your horse to a trainer, pick up another
neck and seriously injure him or worse. There arehorse, or take your horse to join a friend for a ride.
several kinds of fences made for horse pasture.
Barbed wire and narrow gauge (2.5 mm) high-tensileThere are several types of trailers; they are of many
steel wire, because of their cutting, non-stretching andsizes from small to huge. Some of them even have
nonbreaking properties, can cause severe injury toowners quarters or a groomsman's room adjacent to
horses. They should be avoided when constructingthe horse section. There are the horse carrying motor
fences for horses, as should internal fence-stays orhome style vehicles too. For highway speeds and to
posts, which are a common cause of injury.go any distance, it is best to use a large towing pickup
truck specialized for such use. The best are the dual
Fences should be readily visible to horses and properlytired big pickup trucks called Duelies. You then get a
maintained. The ideal fence for premises designedbig sturdy support hitch mounted in the pickup bed and
mainly for horses is the synthetic, strong, flexible,the trailer has a long hitch stalk that projects into the
post-and-rail type, with rails treated or painted withtruck bed. This type, called a goose neck trailer with a
nontoxic preparations. A popular alternative, which also5th wheel hitch, will give you excellent stability and a
provides a good visual barrier, is a single top railshortened turn radius. It is also virtually impossible to
attached to a conventional post-and-wire fence. I likehave a trailer disconnect from the truck -- which is a
the Australian Sheep Wire fence as it has a grid that isworry with pull-behind trailers.
very small at the bottom and larger at the top. The
small grid size at the bottom prevents the horse fromBefore you take your horse for a first trailer ride; you
stepping through the fence and getting tangled. I alsoshould ride in the back of the trailer, while someone
like a charged electric wire just above the highly visibleelse drives the truck, so that you can experience the
top rail to "convince" the horse to not lean over thatcornering and braking calamities that the horse will
top rail to get grass on the other side. Such leaning byexperience. Some folks put leg wraps on their horses
such a strong and heavy animal is a major cause ofwhen trailering to help protect the horse more from
fence breakage. There must be no sharp objectsaccidental braking, cornering, or bumping. After you
projecting inwards.have ridden in the moving trailer yourself, take a few
practice runs with you and the horse -- so you can
Your large animal Veterinarian or Horse feed and tacksee what the horse is experiencing as a driver drives,
store can help you find the right fencing and an installerturns and brakes. And it would be a good idea to next
that knows what he's doing. Ideally your pasture willhave someone else ride with your horse while you
have fence corners rounded on a large radius todrive. One of my friends had a good technique; she put
prevent your horse from injury if he is cornered bya long stem wine glass on the dash of her truck and
another horse or is just running with exuberance andfilled it with water. She then learned to drive without
misjudges the distance to the corner. I havespilling the water or turning over the glass. Personally I
occasionally seen a horse on a tether chain or rope, asthink it is a great technique to practice.
some people do a dog. Tethering is a practice which
has a high risk of injury to horses. It is notYou also need to keep the trailer clean, especially
recommended and should be used only when otherkeeping it free of hay dust and dirt. Remember when
forms of grazing or containment are unavailable andthe trailer is underway and if the vent windows are
when close supervision of the horse can beopen, whatever hay and dirt there is inside will start
maintained. Only placid horses and those adequatelywhirling around in the trailer. Keep everything well tied
trained to accept the practice should be tethered.down inside too; falling, and swinging articles in the
trailer can spook your horse and cause him to jump
FORGET WHAT YOU LEARNED FROM NOVELSand hurt himself.
OR HOLLYWOOD: Contrary to all the horse stories
and films, your horse will not respond to you the sameService the trailer at least once a year. Check the
way a dog or cat will. He will respond and performbrakes, tires, tire pressure and all hitch welds and bolts
best when his owner is consistent and has a routine.carefully. Make certain that the floor is solid. Practice
Forget all those stories about Flicka and Black Beauty;driving, backing and turning. Practice using the mirrors.
it only happens in the movies.Mirror use is difficult to learn and of utmost importance.
With proper mirror use however, you can easily back
Horses do have personality but you must rememberyour trailer into a space only a few inches larger than it
that they are very big and strong and you cannotis.
make them do anything unless you have convinced
them and then they choose to do it. Proper groundWHO IS THE BOSS?: If you don't watch out -- your
manners are a must and the rider must know how tohorse will TRAIN YOU, for instance... I knew this lady
ride. Take some lessons if you are a first time owner.who trailered her horse to various lessons and rides...
Horses do not like you to hang onto the reins forbut he knew he did not have to get into the trailer until
balance. Learn how to balance yourself in the saddlethe third attempt each time. First she would lead him to
and to gently guide the horse with the reins. There isthe trailer, he would stop and she would pet and coo
no faster way to make a horse "sour" than to pull onto him. The second time she would coax him a little
his mouth roughly. Learn the horse language; the waymore with carrots and baby talk. When that, of course,
to communicate to your horse is through the balancedidn't work either (he liked that sweet talk and
of your body, your seated position, the position of yourespecially the carrots) she would try the third method.
feet and legs and lastly the position of your hands.By now she was a little tired and frustrated with him,
she wanted to go home or get on with the lessons; so
STABLING: He does not enjoy being locked in a stallshe spoke firmly, put the chain across his nose,
every night. He would much prefer the open fields andtightened it a bit, and... he'd get right on. But he always
the starry nights! A three sided shed (preferably withknew that he didn't have to get on until the third
the open side to the southwest) will due just fine.technique -- besides he would miss his carrots and
Horses do need protection from the sun and rain.sweet talk if he got on the first time!
Horse blankets/rugs make us feel better; nature
however, has equipped him just dandy with a real furHere's another one. Some horses raise their head and
coat. Those horses that are unlucky enough to be putclamp their teeth and will not accept the bit. I have
in a stall every night could probably use a rug unlessseen people strike the horse about the face or swing
the barn is REALLY COZY. But, when it is 30 degreesthe bridle and hit him -- this only teaches him that the
or lower and it is blowing and wet, he does appreciatebridle is a mean, scary piece of equipment and that
a stall to eat his grain and hay. And it will save you ahe'd better raise his head up out of your reach for his
lot of cleanup in your paddocks.own protection. The solution to bit shyness takes a
while; it will take a little patience, some sweet talk and
PASTURE: Plant a pasture with a mixture of propersome sweet syrup on your fingers. Play around with
grass seeds. Check with the local Agriculturalhis mouth with your fingers and let him wear the bit
Substation or horse feed supply store for the seedawhile when he is in his stall to eat and drink. Put it on
mix. Build several paddocks to keep your horses in forhim sometimes while you are grooming him too. Make
short times, so that you can rotate the pastures andsure that the bit is adjusted correctly for tightness in his
periodically give each one a rest to replenish the heightmouth and that it is the right size and style. And
of it's grasses.especially be certain that when you ride him that you
are not always holding tension on the reins, using them
Horses are poor utilizers of pasture, compared towhen you should be only giving body language
cattle or sheep. Most horse pastures contain a largedirections, sawing them back and forth from left to
proportion of weeds and "roughs" where horses areright or in any way being rough on his mouth.
the only grazers. Horses will not eat pasture that is
contaminated with horse dung. This usually causes theMOUNTING YOUR HORSE: Training your horse to
contaminated area to become larger and the grazingstand still as a statue while you mount is a MUST! If
area smaller. The pasture growing round the dungyour horse likes to walk about while you try to mount
patches is usually lush and looks to be the best feed,up -- have someone hold him while you get up and
while the patches in between will look overgrazed.properly placed in the saddle. Once you are mounted
-- sit well in the saddle with an erect posture, take a
Where possible, horses should be grazed indeep and cleansing breath and sink into your saddle
conjunction with cattle or sheep. In addition to helpingwith poise and assurance before you start off with
calm the horses; the other species will clean up thehim. Take time frequently with just you and him; when
"roughs" while also reducing the worm contaminationno one is around, mount him inside the pasture or
on pasture. Although harrowing can also be useful topaddock fence and just stand there in the saddle with
spread the dung around, in moist conditions and whenhim for several minutes. Then after quite some time,
the grass is long it may spread worm eggs, making aask him to walk. Of course you will need to spend the
larger area of the paddock infected. Where no cattletime needed to train him to stand quiet and still while
or other grazers are available, it is essential to removeyou are on him. And you must each learn the
the manure or spread it around regularly during dryparticulars of how to open the pasture gate while you
periods, when the sun and ultraviolet rays will tend toare in the saddle.
destroy eggs and larvae.
RETURNING FROM A RIDE: There is always the
Your horses will leave some big manure piles aroundtemptation on your horses part, to run back to the
the pasture and especially in the corners. Spread thebarn at the end of a ride. He will be tempted to trot
horse manure out on the pasture with a drag harrowinstead of walk; canter instead of trot; or run instead of
and rake out the pasture corners to break it up incanter. Be careful or you will be allowing him to learn or
smaller pieces; it helps to keep the fly larvae in theto think you are teaching him to run home. If you
manure from hatching out and bothering your horses.persist in this permissiveness you may eventually have
a runaway horse each time his head turns toward
You will need a manure spreader to spread thehome.
manure you shovel out of your loafing sheds and stalls.
Your horses will eat a lot of the grass in your pastureWhen you do return home; come down to a walk well
-- but you will still have to mow the pasturesaway from the barn and let him cool down well as
periodically and you will need to use a weed-eateryou near the barn. If you are cantering in and he wants
under and along all the fences. You will need to keep ato go faster, break down the gait to a trot and if
check out for any plants of the nightshade family asneeded down to a walk even if a long way from the
they are poisonous to your steeds.barn. If he won't walk calmly but wants to jig and go
sideways or tries breaking into a faster gait -- you
Grazing animals deplete soil nutrients progressively,need to spend some time in the paddocks and school
which in turn leads to poor pasture quality and growthhim to walk and trot when you tell him too. If you still
rate. This should be regularly monitored by soil andhave trouble; get help from an outside equestrian or a
pasture analysis. Pasture should be top dressed withtrainer.
fertilizers to replace identified nutrient deficiencies.
Check with your State Agricultural Agent (each stateBUYING YOUR HORSE: When buying a horse be
has an Agricultural College and Agents attached) toaware that what you see during the purchasing
learn to identify soil nutrient needs and to show youmeeting with the horse -- is what you will have when
how to destroy noxious plants properly. Make certainyou take him home. He is most likely on his best
that there is always plenty of clean fresh water in thebehavior at the barns and paddocks where he lives,
pasture and that the water trough is kept dutifullyso when you remove him to take him to your place
clean!you are likely to get worse behavior not better. Unless
you are a very experience rider with some good
VACCINATIONS: Your horses require annual boosterhorse sense, you should purchase an older, settled
shots for Rabies, Tetanus, Flu Rhino and Encephalitis,horse for a first mount and then as you improve get a
and Potomac Horse Fever. Check with your localyounger more spirited one.
Large Animal Veterinarian and maintain a proper
schedule of immunizations and regular checkups.Look at the teeth to detect age and condition of the
Horses also require quarterly worming to keep thehorse. Horse newspapers have lots of ads and some
intestinal parasites below the danger level.advice. There are auctions for horses too; once you
find out about them you can get on the mailing list and
FARRIER SERVICES: Horses in the wild got along justvisit a few before you buy. Classified ads are a very
fine without a Farrier. They ran and romped over vastgood sources of horses for sale.
expanses, were chased by predators and often ran
long distances as a herd. But now that they are keptWhen you go to look at a horse to purchase; take
and ridden mostly on soft sandy soil or grasslands --along an honest and reputable person to help you with
the hooves need trimming every six to eight weeks.that purchase. A good saddle horse should cost you
AND, yes some horses do need horseshoes of steel,from $2,500 to $5,000. A trained horse can cost much
rubber or some other material. You will be able to tell ifmore but may well be worth the cost. Specialty
your horse need shoeing; if he does he will walk veryhorses of course -- Arabians and Thoroughbreds for
"tender-footed" and may have cracks and breakage ininstance can cost more than a nice home or in some
his hooves. The way he walks, stands and carriescases more than a nice shopping center. You don't
himself in general will tip you off to his Farrier needs.always get what you pay for... but you can count on
paying for what you get.
INTENTION: Your intention is of great importance!
Horses can feel a fly on their back and they can feelWatch for conformation (shape and bodily proportion)
your intent; when you really mean business. They learnin the horse; which can be learned from books and
in a hurry who they have to respect and who theythen there is Attitude -- this is the same as for humans.
can play around with -- DON'T be fooled! Set yourselfIf the horse has a bad attitude it's hardly worth owning
up to win his respect and keep it. Don't ask him to doat any cost. The horse should be checked perhaps
anything that you suspect will be an argument unlesseven x-rayed by a Veterinarian. This is called Vetting a
you have the time to make certain that he does it. Behorse; done in a pre-purchase exam. This usually costs
firm. Being firm does not mean beating your horse; itabout $300 to $500. A lot of lameness can't be seen
does mean that sometimes you might have to put awith the eye and will only show up with strenuous
chain a little too snugly across his nose to lead him iftraining, or during work or competition -- just when you
he walks too fast and gets ahead of you at lead.can't afford it. ===Happy Trails and best wishes to a
lot of good horsin' around for all you readers who
TRUST: It is so important that your horse trust you.want horses. Horses can bring out the best and the
Please don't abuse him by hitting or kicking him. Trust isworst of a person and give you endless hours of
necessary for him when you want him to cross apleasure, exercise and frustration. But most horse
ditch or a fence or take him to water or take him toowners and lovers wouldn't have it any other way.
ride with other horses. Trust is built by day to day
consistent care and treatment of your horse; and byTALLY HO!